TEFL in the Middle East: an interview with a teacher who has worked all over the Arabian Gulf

Have you considered working in the Middle East, particularly in the Arabian Gulf?  Adverts encouraging tourists to visit the area show images of amazing shopping centres, beautiful beaches lined with palm trees, four-wheel-drive vehicles hurtling up and down huge sand dunes, and usually someone with a falcon on his arm gazing over a spectacular desert sunset.  But what’s it really like?  Here we interview a British teacher, Dave, and ask him for his reflections on working in countries around the Gulf.

What drew you to the Arabian Gulf?

I am interested in travel and history, so have travelled to other areas of the Middle East, but the main draw for the Gulf was the tax-free salary.

Is the money really that good?

Yes, it can be, but you must be selective when choosing a job in the Gulf.  The tax-free package usually includes free accommodation with free utilities - other than the phone bills, free transport to and from work, and a free annual return flight home.  Some teachers save all their salary by taking on private lessons and in the process, I’ve heard this first-hand, receive some amazing ‘gifts’…

…Such as?

A teacher I knew in the Emirates [the UAE] worked at a primary school where some teachers provided private tuition out of school hours.  One of these teachers really impressed the parents of her student and was given a brand-new Mercedes!  Understandably the headmistress said she would have to either return the car and continue working at the school or keep the car and quit her job.  She was last seen driving into the sunset!

Really?

Yes, but that story is legendary as it seldom happens.

What‘s the main challenge of working in the area?

I think most people, including myself, experience culture shock.  It’s a good idea to read up on the culture before heading out to prepare for the different lifestyle in the Gulf.  Wherever you are in the world visitors are expected to respect the local way of life and their way of doing things – it’s exactly the same in the Gulf, but I think cultural differences are more apparent in the region. 

How did you overcome this [the culture shock]?

I familiarised myself with the culture to adjust to the environment and also to avoid any misunderstandings.  Then I got involved in one of the many social activities nearby:  there are rugby, sailing, running [the Hash House Harriers], scuba diving and natural history clubs dotted all over the Gulf  where people really make an effort to lay on great days out.  If you’re not the social type, then taking on a hobby is a great way to remain positive and get a sense of achievement out of the time spent in the region.

You’ve spent over five years TEFL teaching in the region - what tips do you have for teachers?

At your educational institution – “Go with it”.  If you try and introduce a new approach, you may end up fighting a losing battle.  The various Ministries of Education have developed an approach which suits the environment and so you should accept that. By all means offer an opinion, but if it isn’t taken on board, don’t keep trying to change the system - it’ll wear you down. 

If you returned to the Gulf, where would you prefer to work in the region and why?

For the best salaries I would go to Saudi, Kuwait or Qatar.  For a really good salary and a more enjoyable lifestyle I would go to the UAE, particularly Dubai or Abu Dhabi Emirates.  For the best opportunity to enjoy a good work-lifestyle balance then I would live in Oman or Bahrain.  It seems that Iran is being welcomed back into the international community; if that’s the case, then I would like to work there as it is a fascinating country.

Would you go back?

I love to travel and so feel the urge to explore “pastures new”, but if the right opportunity came up, then yes, certainly.  I have particularly fond memories of working in the UAE and Bahrain, exploring the nature in Oman, and the amazing history and scenery of Iran.

Imagine you were starting your time in the Gulf again, what would you do?

I would research the location of the job to ensure I can enjoy a reasonable work-life balance.  As soon as I arrive I would join clubs or societies to help ensure I have a good social scene.  I would start Arabic lessons – I only intended to stay for one year but ended up working over five years in the region and an understanding of Arabic is appreciated as well as a great advantage in employability. Learn the guitar or piano.  I did start learning the piano but when I moved I sold it - imagine how much progress I would have made in 5 years!